Silk 101

Silk or satin: how to read a scarf label

 · 2 min read

Emerald and gold leaf silk scarf with a rolled hem in warm lamp light

Here is the sentence that clears up most of the confusion: satin is a weave, not a fiber. A satin scarf can be made of silk, or of polyester, or of a blend. Saying a scarf is satin tells you how it was woven, not what it is made of — which is exactly why the word is so useful to anyone selling polyester at a silk price.

What a label has to tell you

In the United States, the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act requires a label to state the fiber content by percentage, the country of origin, and the identity of the company responsible. In practice, on a scarf you should be able to read three things:

  • The fiber content. The sewn-in label gives it by percentage, and an online listing must at least name every fiber, the main one first. “Silk” is a claim; “satin”, “silky” and “silk feel” are not.
  • The country where it was made.
  • An RN number or the company name, so the product traces back to someone.

If the only word on the label is “satin”, you are looking at a weave description standing in for a fiber content. That is the single biggest tell.

What momme means

Emerald and gold leaf silk square lifted by the center, falling in soft folds
Weight shows in the drape, and momme is how it is measured.

Momme (pronounced “moe-mee”), which some sellers list, is the weight of the cloth — the weight in pounds of a piece 45 inches (114 cm) by 100 yards (91 m). For scarves the useful range is roughly 12 to 19: below 12 the silk is very light and slips out of a knot, above 19 it stops draping. A lighter silk is not a fault, but it must not be sold as a heavier one.

On our product pages you will find the fiber, the size in inches and centimeters and images showing the scarf laid flat and worn. More answers in our help center.

Three tests on a scarf you already own

Hand drawing a silk scarf slowly through a closed fist for the hand test
The hand test: real silk warms to the hand almost at once.
  1. The hand test. Draw the scarf slowly through a closed fist. Real silk warms to your hand almost immediately and comes out with a soft, uneven feel. Polyester stays cool and comes out slick.
  2. The shine test. Turn the scarf under a lamp. Silk changes color subtly as the angle changes, because the filament is triangular and refracts light. Polyester satin has a flat, white shine that stays the same.
  3. The edge test. Roll a corner between finger and thumb. A rolled hem is a small round bead with stitches on one side only — it is slow work, which is why it is rare on a cheap polyester scarf.

The burn test is the definitive one — silk smells of burnt hair and leaves a crushable ash; polyester smells chemical and leaves a hard bead — but it destroys a corner, so keep it for a scarf you are prepared to damage.

Is satin ever the right answer?

Yes. A polyester satin costs a fraction as much, survives a washing machine, and for a scarf that will be knotted on a bag handle daily that may be the sensible choice. The problem is never satin itself — it is satin sold as though it were silk. Our silk and satin blends say so in their name and on their Material line.

The fiber and the size on every product page. Shop silk scarves — free US shipping from $50.

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